Plénitude turns sauce into the main character. At Cheval Blanc Paris, Arnaud Donckele's cooking is luxurious, but its real signature is the way broths, reductions and aromatic infusions move through the meal like perfume with structure. The Seine-side setting supplies the polish; the kitchen supplies the obsession. Courses can appear delicate, even minimal, before a sauce changes their entire temperature and mood. It is a restaurant that makes the old French grammar of jus and liaison feel newly charged.