Arpège is Alain Passard's long-running argument that vegetables can carry all the drama of haute cuisine. The restaurant's Paris dining room is understated, but the cooking is anything but passive: produce from Passard's own gardens is roasted, smoked, glazed, fermented or served with near-disarming simplicity, depending on what it needs. The genius is not that meat recedes; it is that carrots, beets, onions and herbs suddenly seem theatrical. Few restaurants make restraint feel so radical or so full of color.