Aponiente is Ángel León's marine laboratory, housed in a former tidal mill and devoted to the edible possibilities of the sea. This is not just seafood cookery; it is plankton, sea grains, algae, bycatch, marine charcuterie and the strange poetry of turning ocean research into dinner. The experience can be startling, but the point is not gimmickry. León's best work makes the sea feel larger, weirder and more fragile than a luxury fish course ever could.