Quique Dacosta's restaurant in Dénia is shaped by the Mediterranean, but not in the easy seaside sense. Rice, salt, seafood, citrus, vegetables and Valencian memory become highly composed, sometimes dreamlike courses that treat the coast as both pantry and mythology. The cooking can be cerebral, but it is rarely detached; its best moments carry the warmth of sun, the bitterness of herbs and the mineral snap of the sea. It is a deeply local restaurant with a global imagination.