Kei Kobayashi's Paris restaurant is often described as French-Japanese, but the label undersells the tension that makes it memorable. The cooking is meticulous and visually exact, yet it is rarely austere; crisp textures, vivid acidity, seafood, herbs and sauces are layered with a painterly sense of contrast. There is deep respect for French technique, but also a lighter, more kinetic sensibility at work. The result is elegant without feeling embalmed, a Parisian meal sharpened by an outsider's precision.