Épicure, inside Le Bristol, delivers the kind of Parisian luxury that could easily become stiff, then keeps rescuing it with warmth and clarity. The cooking is French in the grand manner, with immaculate produce, deep sauces and a dining room that understands the pleasure of being looked after without being crowded. Its appeal is not novelty for novelty's sake. It is the confidence of a restaurant that knows exactly what people come to Paris hoping for, and has the discipline to make it feel effortless.