Jordnær turns a modest inn north of Copenhagen into one of the most unabashedly luxurious seafood experiences in the Nordic countries. Eric and Tina Vildgaard's restaurant is intimate in scale but not in ambition, with caviar, shellfish and pristine fish handled with a mix of tenderness and nerve. The cooking is polished, sometimes opulent, yet it has an emotional directness that keeps it from becoming a trophy meal. It feels like fine dining with the volume turned down and the stakes turned up.