Eleven Madison Park is still one of New York's grand dining rooms, but its plant-based reinvention changed the emotional temperature of the restaurant. Daniel Humm's kitchen now asks vegetables, grains, fruit, legumes and ferments to carry the luxury once assigned to foie gras or lobster, and the results can be cerebral, beautiful and provocative. The Art Deco room supplies ceremony; the menu supplies the argument. Whether one approaches it as manifesto or meal, it remains impossible to confuse with anywhere else.