Providence is Los Angeles seafood cooking at its most serious, yet Michael Cimarusti's restaurant never lets responsibility dull pleasure. The kitchen's commitment to sustainable sourcing shows up in pristine fish, shellfish, uni, roe and broths handled with exacting technique and a deep respect for the ocean. The room is calm, almost understated by Hollywood standards, which gives the food room to command attention. It is a meal of polish, conscience and marine intensity rather than red-carpet theatrics.