The Ledbury's return gave Notting Hill back one of its most serious dining rooms, and Brett Graham's cooking feels more grounded than ever. Game, vegetables, seafood and British produce are handled with a hunter-gardener sensibility: earthy, precise, occasionally muscular, but always elegant. The restaurant has luxury and polish, yet its best moments feel rooted in craft rather than status. It is a grown-up London tasting menu, less interested in fireworks than in depth, seasonality and the quiet thrill of perfect timing.