The first thing to know about Netsu by Ross Shonhan is context: a waterfront or coastal backdrop in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, matched with the ambitions of a Japanese restaurant. Readers should look for seasonality, restraint and precisely controlled pacing, because that is where a restaurant of this type earns its reputation. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.