The first thing to know about Bâoli is context: a waterfront or coastal backdrop in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, matched with the ambitions of a Mediterranean restaurant. The draw is brightness, produce and a relaxed sense of generosity; at a luxury, special-occasion price point, it should be judged as a deliberate destination meal. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.