The first thing to know about El Gato Express is context: a waterfront or coastal backdrop in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates, matched with the ambitions of a Mexican restaurant. Readers should look for flavor, texture and regional character, because that is where a restaurant of this type earns its reputation. Choose it when you want flavor, texture and a point of view rooted in cuisine rather than decor alone; the meal should feel anchored in its setting rather than interchangeable.