The first thing to know about Nan Bei is context: a high-rise, view-conscious room in Bangkok, Thailand, matched with the ambitions of a Chinese restaurant. The draw is regional technique, texture and the rhythm of shared plates; at a luxury, special-occasion price point, it should be judged as a deliberate destination meal. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.