Lay Lao (Phaya Thai) is a Thai restaurant in Bangkok, Thailand, and the useful context is what kind of evening it seems built to deliver. The draw is aromatics, heat and balance; at a comparatively accessible price point, it should be judged as a smart choice when you want something considered without turning the night into a major splurge. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.