Cheval Blanc by Peter Knogl occupies the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois in Basel, a setting that gives the meal Rhine-side grandeur before the food begins. Knogl's cooking is classical French at its core, but Mediterranean brightness and subtle Asian accents keep the plates from feeling heavy. The pleasure is in the sauces, the immaculate products and the calm assurance of a kitchen that understands refinement as balance. It is grand hotel dining with a lighter, sharper, more cosmopolitan pulse.