Leña Madrid benefits from a polished hotel or resort backdrop in Madrid, Spain, which gives the meal a clearer sense of occasion before the food arrives. The draw is the quality of the grill, the meat program and the wine or cocktail support around it; at a polished mid-to-high price point, it should be judged as a polished dinner worth planning ahead for. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.