Martín Berasategui's flagship in Lasarte-Oria is a monument to the chef's long, exacting language: Basque roots, French technique, luxuriant sauces, seafood, truffles and plates built with almost surgical control. The restaurant can feel classical in its seriousness, but the food still has flashes of play and sensuality that keep it from becoming rigid. It is the kind of meal where experience shows. Nothing is casual, yet everything has the confidence of a kitchen that has refined its voice over decades.