The first thing to know about Borgo Hannam is context: a high-rise, view-conscious room in Seoul, South Korea, matched with the ambitions of an Italian restaurant. Readers should look for ingredient-led cooking, comfort and a clear sense of place, because that is where a restaurant of this type earns its reputation. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.