Hiša Franko makes the Soča Valley feel like a complete culinary world. Ana Roš's cooking is fiercely local without being quaint, drawing on mountain pastures, trout, cheese, foraged plants, fermented ingredients and the borderland history of western Slovenia. The restaurant's remote setting is part of the meal's meaning: you sense the roads, rivers and producers behind the plate. It can be bold and occasionally wild, but never generic. This is place-based fine dining with mud on its boots and imagination in its hands.