Il Mercato is an Italian restaurant that gives Lisbon, Portugal a clear reason to appear on a dining shortlist. The draw is ingredient-led cooking, comfort and a clear sense of place; at a polished mid-to-high price point, it should be judged as a polished dinner worth planning ahead for. It is most compelling for diners seeking warmth, produce and familiar pleasures handled with care, especially if the night calls for something more considered than a safe default.