In Almancil, Portugal, Gusto by Heinz Beck is best approached as a Mediterranean restaurant: specific enough to guide expectations before you book. Readers should look for brightness, produce and a relaxed sense of generosity, because that is where a restaurant of this type earns its reputation. Its one-star standing makes it a serious address: polished enough to plan around, but still best judged by whether the kitchen's point of view matches your tastes.