The first thing to know about Nikkei Rockwell is context: a high-rise, view-conscious room in Manila, Philippines, matched with the ambitions of a Japanese restaurant. Readers should look for seasonality, restraint and precisely controlled pacing, because that is where a restaurant of this type earns its reputation. It is most compelling for diners seeking precision, pacing and quiet focus, especially if the night calls for something more considered than a safe default.