L'OSIER is Ginza elegance in its most polished French form. The Shiseido-owned restaurant has the glamour one expects from the address, but the cooking succeeds because it keeps classic French pleasure light on its feet. Sauces, seafood, seasonal vegetables and luxury products arrive with crisp service and a distinctly Japanese sense of finish. It is a restaurant of sheen and discipline, where the room's beauty matters but never has to compensate for the plate.