The first thing to know about Alle Corone is context: a polished hotel or resort backdrop in Venice, Italy, matched with the ambitions of a contemporary fine-dining restaurant. The draw is chef-led composition, pacing and a distinct point of view; at a polished mid-to-high price point, it should be judged as a polished dinner worth planning ahead for. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.