Enrico Bartolini's Milan flagship makes sense inside a design museum: elegant, controlled and alert to the visual logic of a plate. The cooking is contemporary Italian, but it rarely abandons comfort; instead, familiar ideas are tightened, brightened and given a cosmopolitan finish. Milan's appetite for style is present, yet the restaurant's best quality is balance. It can feel luxurious without being heavy, creative without severing its Italian roots, and polished without losing the warmth of a proper meal.