Set within a historic or character-rich backdrop in Milan, Italy, Chateau Dufan immediately feels more specific than a generic restaurant listing. Readers should look for the kitchen's clarity, hospitality and consistency, because that is where a restaurant of this type earns its reputation. It is most compelling for diners seeking flavor, texture and a point of view rooted in cuisine rather than decor alone, especially if the night calls for something more considered than a safe default.