Costes Downtown benefits from an urban, reservation-led room in Budapest, Hungary, which gives the meal a clearer sense of occasion before the food arrives. The draw is chef-led composition, pacing and a distinct point of view; at a luxury, special-occasion price point, it should be judged as a deliberate destination meal. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.