JAN gives Munich a destination restaurant that feels sleek without being anonymous. Jan Hartwig's cooking is precise, product-driven and intensely composed, but it avoids the coldness that can haunt technical tasting menus. Courses tend to have a clear center of gravity: a sauce, a vegetable, a cut of fish, a texture that makes the plate cohere. The room is elegant and urbane, yet the meal's force comes from discipline rather than display. It is modern German fine dining with a very steady hand.