Rutz could only really be in Berlin: serious, cerebral, wine-obsessed and far less interested in old fine-dining manners than in creating its own language. Marco Müller's cooking draws on German produce, fermentation, herbs, vegetables and unexpected textures, making the meal feel closer to a conversation with the land than a parade of luxury goods. The wine program is central, not ornamental. Together they create a restaurant that feels modern because it is curious, slightly austere and quietly rebellious.