Osteria Matto is an Italian restaurant that gives Lyon, France a clear reason to appear on a dining shortlist. The draw is ingredient-led cooking, comfort and a clear sense of place; at a comparatively accessible price point, it should be judged as a smart choice when you want something considered without turning the night into a major splurge. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.