La Marine belongs completely to Noirmoutier. Alexandre Couillon cooks as if the island's salt marshes, tides, fishing boats and kitchen gardens were all part of the same mise en place, producing food that can be stark, saline, vegetal and unexpectedly tender. The dining room looks outward to the harbor, but the meal feels even more inwardly tied to place. Expect no generic seafood parade; the pleasure is in the strange, beautiful details of an Atlantic island translated into a precise modern language.