Lee Bros Winery benefits from a wine-country backdrop in Vancouver, Canada, which gives the meal a clearer sense of occasion before the food arrives. Readers should look for Korean flavor, rhythm and shared-table energy, because that is where a restaurant of this type earns its reputation. It is most compelling for diners seeking flavor, texture and a point of view rooted in cuisine rather than decor alone, especially if the night calls for something more considered than a safe default.