The first thing to know about Don Alfonso 1890 is context: a high-rise, view-conscious room in Toronto, Canada, matched with the ambitions of an Italian restaurant. Readers should look for ingredient-led cooking, comfort and a clear sense of place, because that is where a restaurant of this type earns its reputation. Its one-star standing makes it a serious address: polished enough to plan around, but still best judged by whether the kitchen's point of view matches your tastes.