The first thing to know about Canoe is context: a high-rise, view-conscious room in Toronto, Canada, matched with the ambitions of a contemporary fine-dining restaurant. The draw is chef-led composition, pacing and a distinct point of view; at a luxury, special-occasion price point, it should be judged as a deliberate destination meal. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.