Tuju is research-driven without feeling like homework, a São Paulo restaurant that treats Brazil's biomes as living pantry, climate record and source of pleasure. Ivan Ralston's menus tend to move with the seasons, folding native fruits, herbs, seafood, game and fermentation into food that feels modern because it is so specific. The room has the confidence of a destination restaurant, but the cooking's real force is curiosity: each course seems to ask what Brazilian fine dining can be when it stops looking elsewhere for permission.