Juan Amador hides one of Vienna's most singular dining rooms inside a working wine estate, and the setting tells you plenty about the food: serious, cellar-deep, but never museum-like. His cooking has the clean architecture of German fine dining, flashes of Spanish ancestry, and a willingness to let Austrian produce carry the drama rather than simply decorating the plate. Expect polished luxury, but also heat, smoke, acidity and a sense that the chef is building flavor from underground up.