Set in Buenos Aires, Argentina, Lo Del Francés Café Bistrot reads as a French restaurant rather than a generic listing. The draw is sauce work, technique and carefully composed plates; at a comparatively accessible price point, it should be judged as a smart choice when you want something considered without turning the night into a major splurge. It is most compelling for diners seeking technique, formality and composed cooking, especially if the night calls for something more considered than a safe default.