Set in Buenos Aires, Argentina, La Esperanza de los Ascurra reads as a tapas restaurant rather than a generic listing. The draw is the kitchen's clarity, hospitality and consistency; at a polished mid-to-high price point, it should be judged as a polished dinner worth planning ahead for. It is most compelling for diners seeking a meal with a clear identity, not just a convenient table, especially if the night calls for something more considered than a safe default.