Set in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, Xian Rio reads as an asian restaurant rather than a generic listing. The draw is the kitchen's clarity, hospitality and consistency; at a polished mid-to-high price point, it should be judged as a polished dinner worth planning ahead for. It is most compelling for diners seeking flavor, texture and a point of view rooted in cuisine rather than decor alone, especially if the night calls for something more considered than a safe default.