Atelier Crenn is Dominique Crenn's poetic dining room, where menus read less like lists than fragments of memory and landscape. The San Francisco restaurant is elegant and intimate, with seafood, vegetables, flowers, grains and French technique arranged around feeling as much as flavor. It can be lyrical, occasionally elusive, but the best dishes have real bite beneath the poetry. This is not luxury as accumulation. It is luxury as personal language, spoken through California produce and a chef's stubborn romantic imagination.