Zén takes the townhouse intimacy of Björn Frantzén's Stockholm universe and translates it to Singapore with plenty of Nordic-Asian swagger. Guests move through spaces rather than simply sit for dinner, and the cooking follows suit: seafood, caviar, broths, ferments, luxurious snacks and precise sweets arranged with a sense of journey. The restaurant is indulgent, sometimes unabashedly so, but the structure keeps it from becoming random. It is a controlled adventure, equal parts salon, counter and high-wire tasting menu.