Atrio makes Cáceres feel impossibly elegant. Toño Pérez's cooking draws on Extremadura's landscape, especially Iberian pork, paprika, game, herbs and local produce, while José Polo's wine program gives the meal one of Europe's great cellars as a backdrop. The modern hotel setting within the old city adds to the sense of contrast: ancient stone outside, sleek hospitality inside. It is a restaurant where regional identity is not shouted; it is decanted slowly, course by course.