Set in Madrid, Spain, Varra reads as a contemporary fine-dining restaurant rather than a generic listing. The draw is chef-led composition, pacing and a distinct point of view; at a polished mid-to-high price point, it should be judged as a polished dinner worth planning ahead for. The Bib Gourmand signal is useful because it shifts the question from luxury to value, personality and the pleasure of a meal that feels generous for the spend.