Set in Toronto, Canada, Evergreen Thai Kitchen and Bar reads as a Thai restaurant rather than a generic listing. The draw is aromatics, heat and balance; at a casual value price point, it should be judged as a practical, value-minded stop with more character than a default booking. It is most compelling for diners seeking flavor, texture and a point of view rooted in cuisine rather than decor alone, especially if the night calls for something more considered than a safe default.