The first thing to know about Pierre Gagnaire is context: a high-rise, view-conscious room in Seoul, South Korea, matched with the ambitions of a French restaurant. What matters most is sauce work, technique and carefully composed plates; a luxury, special-occasion price point makes it a restaurant to choose deliberately, not accidentally. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.