Somni returns the avant-garde tasting counter to Los Angeles with a Catalan accent and a dreamlike sense of sequence. Aitor Zabala's cooking draws from the modernist Spanish tradition, but the experience is intimate rather than cavernous: a small room, close-up technique, snacks that behave like illusions and courses that shift between whimsy and deep precision. West Hollywood supplies the stagecraft; the kitchen supplies the rigor. It is a restaurant for diners who miss being surprised and still want every surprise to taste deliberate.