Disfrutar means 'to enjoy,' and the name is almost a warning not to approach the restaurant with too much solemnity. Created by Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro and Eduard Xatruch after years at elBulli, it takes modernist technique and strips away the intimidation, replacing it with wit, sensuality and astonishing control. Courses can arrive as illusions, games or impossible textures, but the meal is never just a science fair. The joy is that the cleverness keeps landing as pleasure.