Quadri Bistrot is a contemporary fine-dining restaurant that gives Milan, Italy a clear reason to appear on a dining shortlist. The draw is chef-led composition, pacing and a distinct point of view; at a comparatively accessible price point, it should be judged as a smart choice when you want something considered without turning the night into a major splurge. Michelin selection gives it a credible place in the dining conversation, even without the expectation or formality of a starred meal.