Troisgros carries one of French cooking's great family names into a dining room of glass, trees and quiet modernity. The move from Roanne to Ouches did not dilute the house style; it gave it room to breathe. Acidity, sauce work, lightness and exacting technique remain central, but the meal feels connected to landscape rather than trapped by legacy. This is not heritage cuisine preserved under glass. It is a living family language, still elegant, still alert, still capable of surprise.